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Behind the Paddle: A Journey to the Heart of Surfing

Roberto Bolaño

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A Surfer Riding A Wave Behind The Paddle

Surfing is more than just a sport. It's a way of life. It's a connection to the ocean, to nature, and to ourselves.

In his new book, Behind the Paddle, renowned surfer and writer Chris Malloy takes us on a journey to the heart of surfing. He explores the waves, the culture, and the people who make up this vibrant community.

Behind The Paddle

5 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	62510 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Screen Reader	:	Supported
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	481 pages

Malloy is a gifted storyteller, and his writing is both lyrical and evocative. He captures the beauty and power of the ocean, the thrill of riding a wave, and the camaraderie of surfers.

But Behind the Paddle is more than just a celebration of surfing. It's also a meditation on the human condition. Malloy explores the ways in which surfing can help us to overcome our fears, to find our place in the world, and to live a more meaningful life.

Behind the Paddle is a must-read for anyone who loves surfing, the ocean, or simply a good story. It's a book that will inspire you, challenge you, and make you want to paddle out and catch a wave.

About the Author

Chris Malloy is a professional surfer, writer, and speaker. He has surfed all over the world, from the North Shore of Oahu to the waves of Indonesia.

Malloy is also a gifted writer. His writing has appeared in numerous publications, including Surfer magazine, The New York Times, and The Surfer's Journal.

Malloy is passionate about sharing his love of surfing with others. He founded the nonprofit organization, the Chris Malloy Foundation, which provides surf therapy to children with autism and other disabilities.

Reviews

“Behind the Paddle is a beautiful and inspiring book. Malloy writes with a poet’s eye and a surfer’s soul. This book will make you want to paddle out and catch a wave.” —Kelly Slater, 11-time world surfing champion

“Malloy’s writing is both lyrical and evocative. He captures the beauty and power of the ocean, the thrill of riding a wave, and the camaraderie of surfers.” —The New York Times

“Behind the Paddle is a must-read for anyone who loves surfing, the ocean, or simply a good story.” —Surfer magazine